Monthly Archive for July, 2008

TR-The Chugach 2007

In the Spring of 2007 Darrell Finlayson and I had plans to fly to a very remote Alaskan range to spend a few weeks freezing and skiing. The weather had other plans for us and our pilot couldn’t fly us in. I learned it’s always good to have a plan B and C when in Alaska. Our next option was to fly into the Chugach from the Matanuska Valley withMike Meekin Air.We had spent 2 weeks sitting around and our time was running out, we just wanted to ski.Waiting to check in my luggage on the air strip. I apologize for the jumbled spacing, it’s a new version and I can’t get it to behave.nh-gearing-up.jpgWe lashed our skis to the wing and crammed 130lbs of gear into the tiny Super Cub.skis-on-plane.jpgWe didn’t really know where we were headed, but Mike said he had dropped one other party in this area and that they had reported that the skiing was excellent. That was good enough information for us at this point.skis-on-plane-in-flight.jpgThe regal Darrell Finlayson surveying our surroundings.df-head-shot.jpgThere was a lot to take in. We were camped in a long glacial valley that had countless chutes on all aspects.headwall.jpgWe jumped on it and skied the blue line below at sunset. The red line was skied later in the week.ski-lines.jpgThe snowpack revealed itself to be stable. The booting revealed itself to be deep.nh-booting-chute.jpgA nice warm-up run.nh-booting-1st-chute.jpgWe hung out topside and mapped out our surroundings and picked out lines to ski.nh-filming-sunset.jpgThe turns were perfect for 2000ft in this 40 degree pow chute.nh-steep-pow-chute-turns2.jpgnh-skiing-steep-pow-chute.jpgWe moved camp the next day to get us closer to the upper head-wall of the glacier.df-towing.jpgOur luxurious accommodations.camp-nh-stretching.jpgNext on the to-do list was the chute lookers right of the sun. It was 1500 feet long with a huge bergschrund and a 50+ degree entry.scenic-of-steep-pow-lines.jpgDarrell named it “Naptime for Bunny”, it’s the line in red.ski-lines.jpgDeep snow made the booting slow.nh-steep-pow-chute.jpgWe ridged out, ditched our skis and scrambled to the summit.nh-climbing-ridge.jpgI can’t recall ever skiing snow that steep and deep. As usual, the pics don’t do it justice.nh-super-steep-turns.jpgDrying out the gear at camp. The weather was excellent for most of the trip.camp-drying-stuff-out.jpgWe brought a satellite phone so Darrell could call in to unemployment and report on his job search. He didn’t find anybody job opportunities on the glacier, but we looked all over. Here I am working out “issues” with the girlfriend at $2 a minute. Ski expeditionsare expensive.nh-on-the-phone.jpgHeadquarters was near the arrow. The red line is a big traverse we did up onto Turtle Flats and back to camp.turtle-flats-t.jpgThis was the ski back to camp off Turtle Flats.upper-cirque-descent.jpgMaintaining dental hygiene.hygine.jpgWe took a rest day and moved back down to our pick-up location.nh-towing.jpgMost of the chutes in this area were S facing. We called this thing the Candy Mtn. Couloir. The walls were all chocolate and caramel covered with a rich nougat filling. It was delicious.candy-mtn-couloir.jpgDarrell took all the stills on this trip. I shot some video, but not much. The filming season had been long and this was more of a vacation than a film shoot.nh-carving-candy-mtn.jpgnh-jump-turn-candy-mtn.jpgIt snowed that night, just enough to freshen things up.camp-w-snow.jpgWe spent our final day playing around on a mellow glacier.nh-cornice-air.jpgnh-glacier-pow2.jpgnh-glacier-pow.jpgWe had a great time and skied some fun stuff, but we laid off the real serious business. Mike Meekin had flow by several times and taken photo’s of our tracks

from the air. He was really impressed and said he’d never seen tracks on any of the stuff we skied. It would be fun to returnand tackle some of the bolder possibilities. Like the shoulder below.headwallcirque.jpgAnd this head-wall above the traversing ramp.secret-chute.jpgAnd anything here would be sporting.sicky.jpgWe named this chute of the highest peak, the South Serpent. It taunted us all week, but we couldn’t figure out how to get there.south-serpent.jpgI’ll put together the video at some point and put it on the blog.

Wasatch Supercoaster

Winter is over, but there are still many trips, vids, and pics that I’m planning on dragging out of the past to post. We’ll begin with this trip report from a few years ago. I wasn’t blogging then and wanted to go light, so no photo’s were taken. I was able to scrounge up some pics for use as visual aids.

I have a ski project’s folder on the computer with a list of objectives I’d like to try and what type of conditions, gear, etc, are necessary to safely achieve them. High on the list is what I’ve been calling the Supercoaster Tour. The idea is to link up the biggest and steepest lines in the Wasatch in one day. With an extended high pressure and low avy danger it seemed like the perfect time to try it.

The Entire Route
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The Supercoaster Tour consists of two legs. The first section starts at the town of Alpine (Utah Valley) and climbs to the top of Lone Peak, ski the Northeast Face, continue up to and across Thunder Ridge and down Coalpit Headwall. This finishes in Little Cottonwood Canyon.
South Leg
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Leg two climbs Tanners slide path to Twin Peaks, ski descent of the East Face and continue to the bottom of Bonkers. Skin to the top of and descend Stairs Gulch to the Big Cottonwood Canyon road.

North Leg
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Total elevation gain is over 14,000ft. I wanted to go as light as possible so I took a small pack with: sunglasses, light wind shell, headlamp, 10 packs of Gu, 3 clif bars, 2 nalgene bottles (one water/one cytomax). My quiver of skis was a little on the fat and heavy side so, I rented some Havocs and put my O1 bindings on them. Without a partner I left the probe, beacon and shovel behind.

On February 12th, 20006 my brother Jonah and his wife Ashley met me at 4am at the G.W. I. parking lot in LCC where I left my car and jumped in with them (just the way they wanted to spend their 4th wedding anniversary). According to the LCC info board, it was 14 degrees out and I was worried I wouldn’t have enough clothing, but that would be good motivation to keep moving. We drove to the trailhead in alpine where they dropped me off at 4:50am after lovingly letting me know I was crazy. Taking off in the dark, I knew the Supercoaster was really about one thing, keep moving.

Not knowing how low the snow level would be, I started in light tennis shoes and went fast to warm up. The first little bit was dirt, then firm snow, which made for quick travel. I followed a snowshoe/skin track out of the first Hamongog, which bypassed the second Hamongog and headed up the big dished out drainage to the East. This track was firm and I went almost all the way to the summit ridge in tennis shoes. I took my first break and continued my Gu and Cytomax routine (every 45 mins). Someone had dug out a big bench that I used to switch from shoes to skinning, which my feet appreciated (they were covered in snow and frost when I took them out of my shoes). Once I hit the summit ridge, I was 2:30 in and feeling good. The ridge to Lone Peaks Summit is steep and exposed in the winter. Getting to the central couloir without whippets or an ice axe took a long time. Once on the summit, I texted my bro and headed down the 50+ degree chute. The turning was great, soft windblown snow. Traversing out of the bottom, over the cliff, I noticed some tracks from a day or two before.

Descent route on Lone Peak
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From Lone Peak to Coalpit was virgin terrain from me, but I had checked some maps and made my way towards the spot in the ridge where I thought I could get through. A cool half pipe type gully connected to a skin track that topped out exactly where I wanted to be. Keep moving. A quick traverse across thunder bowl led to a short boot pack that put me looking directly down the Dresden Face. On to the top of Coalpit, I took another break and sent off another text message. It was 10am and I felt great. Despite many tracks in Coalpit, I still found some untouched consolidated snow that skied really well. My legs felt strong and I skied down with a couple of stops. The waterfall was easily passable using two semi-buried ropes on the skiers left side by the trees.

Descent routes on Lone Peak and Colpit Headwall
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I made it to my car at 10:45, which was sooner than I had anticipated. Refueling on Gu and Cytomax and a slice of pizza I rested for 15 minutes and traded my tennis shoes for crampons. My original plan had been to head across the road and climb Lisa Falls to access Twin Peaks However, my friend Dennis suggested Tanners (God bless you Dennis). Driving up the road a short bit would save around 1,000ft of climbing.

As I started up Tanners (11:10), the temps were warmer than I had hoped and I considered calling it off. The lower section is a huge terrain trap that sees large wet slides from above and from the sidewalls. I decided to haul ass instead. The heat made it tough but, tying my pants open and rubbing down with snow worked until a nice cloud cover moved in. In the narrow top of the chute a group of three were descending. They had put in a nice boot pack so I thanked them for it. What I thought was a rock falling off the ridge towards me turned out to be a Nalgene cozy somebody had dropped. The heat and the quickened pace was taking it’s toll at this point. I took a 10min break at the Broads Fork/Tanners notch (1:30). Keep moving!

Ascent route of Tanners Gulch
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The few turns down from the saddle to the skin track were good. A quick skin to the next saddle turned to a boot and then a rock climb variation that kept me on the ridge, versus dropping in on the south side. Once on top, I took in the beautiful view and saw a group climbing back out of Deaf Smith after skiing the Northwest chute of Twins.

A recent Twin Peaks summit pic by Jay Beyer
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The East Face of Twins had been ravaged, but working the skiers right I found a lot of untracked snow that just got better and better. After some dreamy turns on the apron, I made a hard left and quickly traversed to the bottom of Bonkers (3:30). Passing by the ice cliffs, I noticed somebody had been hucking off of them. My guess is one of those damn film crews or photographers who think they own the place. It was nice to know this 2,000ft would be the last climb of the day. Mid way up Bonkers I was getting light headed and started thinking some strange stuff, like continuing the tour by hitching up BCC and heading into millcreek and up Mt Aire and out to Parley’s Canyon. Maybe next time, but for now sanity and hunger won out.

Routes in Broads Fork. The uphill is blue, the downhill is red. I snagged this screen grab from my buddy who goes by the Wizard of the Wasatch. He skis more than anybody I know and provides free avalanche condition reports.
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Topping out on Stairs I met a friend and his partner, they were the two I had seen in Deaf Smith Canyon. They asked where I had come from and I pointed to Lone Peak, which seemed like a long ways off. They looked a little confused and I’m not sure they believed me. Out of food and fading fast I asked if they had anything to eat. I already had my rocky mountain high, so I passed on the only substance they had to offer. We skied out Stairs Gulch (the longest and steepest avalanche path in the Wasatch) together, which had some good turns up high and some challenging snow down low. The legs were done for the day and not happy, they let me hear about it with every turn to the road.

The only photo of Stairs Gulch I could find, picture it with more snow.
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The guys gave me a ride down to the 7-11 where I called Jonah, he dropped me off back at my car and told me I was crazy.

As I drove home I was shaking and smiling involuntarily from the cold, the lack of food, and the pleasure of completing the Supercoaster. I’m a daydreamer, but every now and then it’s fun to take that what if from just an idea and see how it plays out in reality. The next natural “what if” would be to add on Box Elder and possibly Mount Timpanogos!

Ascent- Over 14,000ft
Descent- Over 14,000ft
Time- 13 hours

Routes and ratings
Lone Peak NE Couloir (S5, 50 degrees, 1,400ft)
Coalpit Gulch (S4, 48 degrees, 4,930ft)
Twin Peaks East Face (S5, 50 degrees, 1,880ft)
Stairs Gulch (S4, 43 degrees, 4,800ft)

BRIGHTON SHORTCUT?

I decided to go for a hike at Brighton last week. In an effort to conserve gas I looked at alternate ways of getting there. My USGS topo map revealed a much more direct route which would cut off a couple of miles and would require no vehicle emmissions. So I thought I would check it out.

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The Big Cottonwood Canyon Road=19miles
The Cottonwood Ridge Shortcut=14miles

The route starts in Ferguson Canyon and stays on the ridge dividing Big and Little Cottonwood Canyons. This is Twin Peaks, the first of several distinct peaks along the way.
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Stopping to smell and enjoy the flowers and the majestic beauty of the mine tailings.
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Stopping for a shadow pic.
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View south from Twin Peaks.
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The route was quite visible from here. Brighton is somewher near the arrow.
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Many miles of this. No time for dilly dallying.
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Terrible pic, but that’s as close as I got to any of the dozens of goats I saw.
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Stopped on top of Sunrise Peak for a “5hour energy” snowcone.
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Looking down Tanners Slide Path
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Summit of Dromedary Peak. Apparently somebody thought it wasn’t tall enough.
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Ok, I did do some dillying.
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And dallying along the way.
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One step closer to a greener planet.
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I must admit this rock scrambling got a bit old.
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Stopped to refuel at this oasis.
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This is looking back on the route from Mount Superior.
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Travel from here to Brighton was pretty easy due to the much welcomed trails. Looking back to Superior from Twin Lakes Pass.
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Success! A mere 11hours and 15minutes later I was at Brighton.
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However, I didn’t really feel much like hiking once I got there.
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Nobody said saving the environment would be easy! I’m just glad I could do my part.

mmmmmm! Granola

This past winter I worked with Andy Rosenberg and Andy Jacobsen on this Nature Valley ad. The production crew that came out had never done a skiing shoot and most of them didn’t even ski. They had two days for the shoot and the Wasatch was in the middle of one of her biggest storms. Into the mountains we went after scrounging up beacons, skis, skins and all the other necessities (Thanks to our friends at the Black Diamond Retail Store).

I’ve never been on a tour where we have skied and skinned so little. For several of the shots we just hiked up and skied back down to the road. We had to holler for the film crews to scramble when the snow plows came blasting through the snow banks. They were really nice guys who sucked it up and suffered through it to get the job done.
It’s a bit cheesy, but I think they did a fine job.