A good formula for adventure is to allow naivety and over-confidence to get yourself into trouble, and then use mental strength, skill, and physical ability to get you back out.
The Grand Traverse of the Tetons has always been a peripheral dream and goal that I thought I’d do someday. However, I’d never really looked into the route in detail or made specific plans until Courtney Pace suggested now is the time. Neither of us had explored any of it other than both of us having walked off the Owen Spalding Route. Jumping right in to tackle the whole GT seemed like too much. So, we decided to inspect the Cathedral Traverse, the first half of the GT, and try and do it in a single day of recon. The loop involves climbing somewhere around 8,000 feet of very exposed loose and steep rock for something like 12 miles while tagging Teewinot, Mt Owen, and the Grand Teton. The key to success is moving quickly over rough terrain and not getting too lost or off route too often. Courtney and I called and texted friends that had completed the traverse (thanks to Andy Dorais and Tom Bennett) and we hit the internet and started collecting the intricate details.
We stayed at friends in Jackson Hole and as we went to bed it was still pouring rain and possibly snowing up high. The plan was to wake up at 2am and see what the weather was doing, go for it if it was clear, and head back to bed if it was still raining. Nothing but stars when we woke up 3.5 hours later. Up and at ’em and to the trail head by 3am. The precip was a concern, but we hoped it would dry out with the warm and sunny forecast. Walking through the lower bushes was like going through a car wash. Our pants and shoes were quickly soaked through. The pace was casual and we gained 2k feet an hour. Gaining over 5K feet right at the start was good for morale, but tough on the legs. We traversed back and forth, this way and that, following ledges and the occasional cairn. We checked in with the route description a little too late though. We had gone out too far and high on the south side despite being on what seemed like “the trail”. We topped out with the sun, but not on the summit, on the pinnacles to the South. Down climbing to get to the true summit looked very difficult and back tracking would have eaten up a ton of time. We opted to call it good and continue on. We missed the first summit, but knew where we had gone wrong and could avoid it in the future.
The Cathedral Traverse lit up before us. We committed to taking time and not getting off route from here on. The way ahead would be easier in the daylight?!
Some easy ridge travel led us to the top of Peak 11,840. From the top we scrambled down a steep gully and found the first rappel anchors.
After sliding down the ropes a few more times we reached the base.
We traversed around to the north on some ledges.
Incredible view, exposure, and miles more to go. The sun was out, temps were perfect, and the rock was mostly dry.
Plenty of checking in to make sure we were on route. So far, so good.
Great scrambling and heads up travel!
From the East Prong we opted to down climb.
This was the first sketchy section! We didn’t bring crampons or axes so we had to stick to the rock ledges. Unfortunately they were wet and loose and the possibility of falling onto the snowfield then launching into the unknown felt real.
We advanced slow and steady by making every move count. Through the Koven Col and onto Mount Owen.
My lack of climbing skills started to show through as Courtney easily crawled up some slabs. I opted for the gully full of many blocks with great holds, and a free shower from melting water off the snowfield above.
Without sharps we opted to pass on the East Ridge of Mount Owen. Instead we cut below the snowfield and worked around to the Koven Couloir.
From here we dropped our packs and scrambled to the summit.
Mount Owen summit selfie with the Grand Teton’s North Face in the background. So far, so good.
We found the correct notch and rappelled off Mt Owen. Then a traverse of ledges and a horribly exposed pinch led us to the notch. It was 11am and we had been making pretty good time. Then the real climbing started.
I love scrambling, but I’m not a climber. This route has both as well as some very blurry lines between the two. I’ve never led a trad pitch in my life. I’ve only climbed once this summer with a rope. A few years ago I did work up to pulling off some 5.12’s in the gym, but then damaged some tendons. Anyway, Courtney planned to lead all the climbing and I figured following 5.7’s and 5.8’s wouldn’t be a big deal. Turns out I should have put in more time with the rope beforehand, if not for the climbing itself, but for acclimating to the exposure.
The first two pitches were fun. Great to get on some steep rock.
Looking back at Teewinot and Owen and many miles traveled.
Courtney had the route dialed. We found the Italian cracks and he led them well. The fun thing about being inexperienced is that the climbing doesn’t have to be that hard to scare the shit out of yourself.
“Identifying and overcoming natural fear is one of the pleasing struggles intrinsic to climbing”. -Alex Lowe-
Even though we tried moving well, we were spent and things slowed way down. There were some snowy and wet patches that were perhaps harder mentally than physically. Maybe it was just the continual exposure that wore us down. It seems impossible that we spent almost as much time on the North Face of the Grand as we had in getting there, but we did.
Don’t look down.
Not out of the woods yet. The exit ramp, the final pitch to cross over to the Owen/Spalding, was coated with snow! Court kicked in steps like a boss with his approach shoes.
The ramp around the corner continued to be covered with snow and slid off into nothingness. Our decision to bail on the summit of the Grand was pretty easy to make. Even though the final climb is “easy” and straight forward from here, the snow had filled in the cracks and footings. We had both been to the summit before and had enough slipping and sliding around for the day. So, we continued to traverse to the saddle and descended the remaining Owen/Spalding.
I’ve covered many more miles and much more vertical in a day, but this turned out to be one of the most taxing outings in the mountains. The compounding exposure really took it’s toll mentally. The Cathedral Traverse was the perfect mix of challenge, fear, and commitment, we stumbled out Garnet Canyon with a good buzz from our intensity cocktail.
Having now completed the most difficult section, Courtney and I discussed the possibility and logistics of pulling off the full GT .
-We could have carried less water as it was plentiful along the way. Carrying 48oz up Teewinot probably did more harm than good.
-Knowing the route we could move through it much faster now.
-Dry conditions would have been much safer/faster/less stressful.
-An earlier start would be advantageous. Teewinot could be done in the dark.
-Climbing shoes would have helped my novice ass, but the Scarpa Vitamins were amazing for an approach shoe!
-Solo the entire route. This seems like a must. This would eliminate the rack and all the weight compounded across the route. Not to mention ALL THE TIME IT WOULD SAVE!
Courtney was an incredible partner. I told him he should find someone else for the GT if he wants to do it this season. It would help to have another climber to swap leads with and make it less stressful.
Not sure if I’ll return for the GT, but it’s fun to toy with the idea of getting more climbing in and soloing those north routes.
We limped back to the car after over nineteen hours on the move. After a quick stop at Maverick we drove back to SLC. Arriving home with just over 24 hours without any sleep. Courtney with a well earned celebratory meal. The doughnut on the soda was a classy move.
Key gear-
Mountain Hardwear- Stretch Ozonic Jacket, Ghost Whisperer Vest, Summit Rocket 30 Back Pack
Scarpa- Vitamin Approach Shoe
Julbo- Venturi Sunglasses
Camp- Alp Racing Harness
Best thing about the Grand Traverse is all the gung-ho athletic folks that naively think they can just go up there and fire it off first go, in a day, in one push (AKA Alex Lowe style), but fail less than what I consider less than halfway into it (Me, you, and everyone else I know). It’s a big effing traverse, and the Cathedral portion is really far less than halfway.
By the time you do Middle, then South, then all the complicated terrain to Nez Perce, add in cumulative fatigue, etc. Well, the getting to the Grand is the easy part. The Cloudveil traverse isn’t too bad, but on tired legs it has some fatality potential in many, many places.
Short winded version: Alex Lowe was a stud, we are all mere mortals.
Yup, guilty as charged! And having never really done any alpine climbing before, my respect for that activity (not a sport) grew tremendously. Enjoying mortality!
great writeup noah. i was hopefully on the docket for court’s partner till I moved to flatland florida. glad you got to take part. The report sounded accurate compared to Court’s oral accounting, minus the part where you state, “he found the Italian cracks no problem and he led them well”. He claimed he thought for sure you were off route the entire time. Another great partner characteristic. Just lie so only one person is stressed.
Thanks Spencer! Sorry to hear about Florida, but now Courtney has it dialed so you two can crush it when you return. Ha, yeah they looked like cracks to me and most I’ve talked to aren’t sure they stayed on the cracks as well.